Surfing is only my Hobby

As I was reading through my surfing magazines I was particularly interested in the articles regarding the young surfers of today. Each magazine I would read there would be several articles on these surfers that ranged from 14 – 20 years of age. These surfers all had a few things in common, that further made me think about the generation I come from. All these young surfers are on their way to becoming pro, they have sponsors and all they do is surf.  They do not only surf to become pro, but they surf because they love to surf and all they want to do is surf. The main similarity was that they were all homeschooled, all their time and effort was put into surfing and nothing else. Most kids from my generation have their eye on one goal for the future; if they enjoy something they wont just make it a hobby but will turn it into their life. An education was not important to these kids, because they could only see themselves surfing and nothing else.

This also relates to me in a way, not the surfing part, but the direction in which I want to live my life. I have experienced the want to become a pro surfer; I wasn’t homeschooled I was just in a Christian School on the Northern Beaches of Sydney.  I practiced all the time, but never made it to the stage I wanted to be at.  Then my dad was offered work in Byron Bay, the most eastern point of Australia, and the surf there is amazing, I thought this is were I could take my next step in become a better surfing. However, that is not where we ended up, we moved to India. I started to do homeschooling, and the one direction I had in my life was gone, surfing. I had no idea what I wanted to do with my future now, until we started travelling, and one thing that always stood out to me as we travelled was architecture. I found direction in my life, not surfing, but something that I also enjoyed. I am now at Woodstock school, and my whole high school life is moving to become an architect. I had changed my hobby into my future again. Surfing will always be apart of my life, however it will continue to just be a hobby. That is one thing I am also happy about, as architecture is what I am crazy about and I cannot imagine my self-being anyone else.

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Is Garrett McNamara’s wave really a world record?

Was Garrett’s Nazaré monster wave really 90ft?

April 18th, 2012

Big wave surfing is one thing that can only be done, and only wants to be done by thrill seekers, but not just any thrill seekers.  Garrett McNamara is said to be “One of the most extreme high sensation seekers on the planet.” He proves this when he sits out in freezing water to wait for a “Kids Glacier” to cave in hope for him and his friend to surf a tsunami size wave. He is also known for taking on some of the biggest barrels and escaping from wipeouts that most people would die from. But this article is not just about Garret McNamara and his life in thrill seeking, but is about him possibly surfing the biggest wave recorded in history. On the Portuguese coast called Nazaré is where McNamara tackled a wave that most people could not even believe could be so big. The possible 90-foot wave was built off a three-mile deep slice in the sea floor off the coast that can produce waves that can be compared to Jaws and Mavericks. Once he was on this 90-foot monster, he ran down the line for 20 seconds while avoiding the falls and a massive wipeout. The wave didn’t get much attention until Kelly Slater (11 time World Champion) made a tweet about it telling him to post it ASAP. Then there was a lot going around in the media about this wave, as there was no official measurement of the wave, it was forwarded to XXL judges to be considered the “Biggest Wave” and “Ride of the Year.” The current world record for largest wave is still held by Mike Parsons who surfed a 77-foot wave, however, Kelly Slater and Greg Noll (both highly respected surfers) still believe it to be a big wave, and one of the biggest waves documented. This might be the biggest wave ever surfed but everyone has to leave it up to the XXL panel to decide. 

Greg Noll’s said “You ride big waves for the love, and the joy, and the adrenaline rush, and that’s what Garrett, hell, what all these guys have in common. How they express themselves may come out a little differently, but they’re all part of the same family.” Personally big wave surfing looks awesome, it is one of the craziest things human do till this day, however it is something that most people should leave up to the extreme thrill seekers. I have seen the wave surfed by both Garret McNamara and Mike Parsons has surfed, and I still believe Mike Parsons wave is bigger. It could be the cameral angle and all that stuff, but the time it takes for Mike Parsons to surf his wave takes a lot longer. But who am I to judge though? I would never in my dreams attempt anything close to this size, I surf the small waves I do for the love and the joy of it.

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http://www.surfing-news.com/is-garrett-mcnamaras-wave-really-a-world-record/